| Zones | Chicago Hardy: 5–9 | Olympian: 7–10 |
| Sun | Full sun (6+ hours) |
| Water | Weekly deep watering, first season |
| Pollinator needed | No — both self-fruitful |
Two Figs, Two Very Different Gardens
Every summer we field the same question from Northern growers: "Can I actually grow a fig tree where I live?" The honest answer depends entirely on which fig you're planting. We carry two varieties that solve this problem in different ways — the Chicago Hardy Fig and the Olympian Fig — and mixing them up is the single most common mistake we see in orders from colder zones.
Chicago Hardy Fig: Built for Northern Winters
The Chicago Hardy Fig (Ficus carica) earned its name for a reason. It's the variety we recommend most often to customers in USDA zones 5 through 9, because its root system reliably survives winters that would kill the top growth of less hardy figs. Even in a hard freeze, the roots push out new fruiting wood the following spring — meaning you still get a harvest even after a rough winter.
The fruit itself is medium-sized, with a deep purple-brown skin and a sweet, jammy interior. It's self-fruitful, so you don't need a second tree for pollination, and it tends to produce two flushes of fruit in a good season — a smaller early crop (called the breba crop) and a larger main crop in late summer.
Olympian Fig: Bigger Fruit, Milder Climates
The Olympian Fig was discovered in Washington State and is prized for one thing above all: fruit size. These are noticeably larger figs than Chicago Hardy, with deep purple skin and a rich, sweet flavor that many growers describe as the best-tasting fig they've grown. The tradeoff is climate range — Olympian performs best in zones 7 through 10, and while it can survive colder snaps with protection, it doesn't have the same root-hardy insurance policy that Chicago Hardy offers.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Trait | Chicago Hardy Fig | Olympian Fig |
|---|---|---|
| Cold hardiness | Zones 5–9 (root hardy to -20°F) | Zones 7–10 |
| Fruit size | Medium | Large |
| Flavor | Sweet, jammy | Rich, very sweet |
| Harvests per season | Two (breba + main) | One main crop, occasional breba |
| Best for | Northern growers, containers, dieback-prone areas | Southern/mild-winter growers wanting maximum fruit size |
Which One Should You Plant?
If you're gardening in zone 6 or colder, or you've lost fig trees to winter dieback before, start with Chicago Hardy — it's the lower-risk choice and still produces genuinely good fruit. If you're in zone 7 or warmer and want the biggest, most impressive figs you can grow at home, Olympian is worth the slightly higher care requirements. Not sure of your zone? Check it against the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map before ordering.
Both varieties do well in large containers if you want to bring them into a garage or unheated shed for winter protection, which is a common strategy for gardeners in borderline zones who want to grow Olympian outside its comfort range.
Planting and Early Care
Fig trees want full sun — at least 6 hours a day — and well-drained soil. Newly planted trees benefit from a deep watering once a week during their first growing season rather than frequent shallow watering, which encourages deeper root development. Hold off on fertilizing heavily in year one; figs actually fruit better when slightly stressed for nitrogen once established.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do fig trees need a pollinator?
No. Both Chicago Hardy and Olympian are self-fruitful, meaning a single tree will produce fruit on its own.
How long until a young fig tree fruits?
Most potted fig trees we ship will produce their first small crop within 1–2 years, with full production by year 3–4.
Can I grow figs in a pot permanently?
Yes — figs are one of the best fruit trees for large containers, and container growing is actually the recommended approach for Olympian in colder zones.
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